Homemade Beck Magnetic Pulser

Magnetic Pulsing







I've been looking more into the Beck Protocol since learning to make colloidal/ionic silver. I will be talking more about these technologies in the near future. It is important for a few reasons. First, I believe in independence. I don't want to rely on big pharma to get drugs that will probably do more damage than good anyway. Secondly, an economic downturn is happening and this technology makes treating yourself and loved ones very easy and economical. Thirdly, I just don't trust big pharma.

Today I will be talking about the magnetic pulser. In theory it is used for treatment of pain and also to kill off pathogens that are in lymph nodes and not in the blood. In other words, this is to be in conjunction with blood electrification. In fact, the pulser causes causes blood electrification during the 2.5 ms pulse. Actually, you get four jolts of microamps in the tissue for each pulse.

As the first pulse is rising, current flows. Then on the downsize back to zero volts at the coil causes a reverse current in the tissue. Then the back emf from the collapsing field generates a current in the tissue but at the opposite polarity as the initial pulse. Then a reverse of that when that field subsides. It happens each time the magnetic field changes or moves.

The trick with the strobe light is to turn it to the lowest setting that it will still pulse at. This takes longer between each pulse, but they are waaaayyyy stronger. So, do that for deep penetration. For more shallow treatments, use a higher or faster setting.


All you do is find a strobe or a camera flash. Take it apart and use a resistor to short out the capacitor.

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS CAPACITOR. IT CAN HAVE 300 VOLTS STORED AND CAN STOP YOUR HEART. If you are unsure, ask someone qualified in electronics such as a TV repairman or an electrician to help.

Once you discharge the capacitor, then you can cut the line to one side of the strobe light and connect the two wires going to the coil.
To make the coil, get some coated copper wire, called magnet wire. Try to use 15 or 16 gauge. I used 15. Make a jig like in the picture below and hand wind or you can stick a bolt through it and use a hand drill. I used electrical tape on it before I took the one wood plate off to remove the coil. You need to secure it somehow, because it will try to unwind slightly.


Also, when running, the flash tube gets hot after about 15 minutes. Take a break and let it cool down. As it gets hot, it offers more resistance to the coil. I put electrical tape on the front to block some of the light. But I kept the cooling vents on the top and bottom alone.

I also added two capacitors in parallel to the existing capacitor. Just make sure positive to positive and negative to negative and that the voltage rating is good. I used capacitors from two more camera flashes, so the voltage rating was about 300 volts. I have 450 MicroFarads now instead of just the 8 MFDs that are standard with this strobe light.

Richard

DIY Solar Intensity Meter - Pyranometer

A pyranometer or solar irradiance meter is used for measuring sunlight intensity at a given location. It reads in watts per square meter or W/m^2. This DIY project isn't technically a pyranometer because it doesn't use heat in any way to measure light intensity. Instead, it uses a solar panel. This could be any small solar panel, like the ones in old calculators. Normally, a pyranometer and even a lux meter will do a cosine correction. What this means is that the meter collects light coming from all angles and measures it. It usually does this with a hemisphere shaped diffuser. But if you are testing for solar intensity for solar applications, then you don't need it. In fact, it is more useful without the cosine correction.

For instance, if a solar panel is perpendicular to the sun, then that is its max power. It's angle would be zero degrees and the cosine of zero is 1. If you turn it to 90 degrees off axis to the sun then you would get no power because the cosine of 90 is 0. (Well, you actually get some power because of reflected light hitting the solar panel)

Let's say you are testing a spot for solar and you use one of the expensive pyranometers. You place it on your roof and get 800 watts per square meter. Then you use the homemade version using a small solar cell. It shows 800 w/m^2 as well, but only if you hold it perpendicular to the sun. If you lay it flat on the roof like you plan on mounting the solar panels it shows only 480 w/m^2. So, in a way the homemade is better because it shows you which angle is the best for the most power.

You can't just measure voltage because it isn't linear on a solar cell. You have to apply a set resistance and then as the light goes up, the current goes up and the voltage goes up, but linear in this case because of the set resistance.

I start off by using an old volume control (potentiometer) and hook it up between the two solar cell wires. I then set my meter to milivolts. I want 1 milivolt to equal1 watt per square meter.

I then find a site that shows local weather statistics. I found this one that shows the data from a school very close to me. http://www.victoriaweather.ca/station.php?id=109&type=day&size=large You are looking for the Insolation value.

You should wait for a sunny day with no clouds. Let's say that it says 600 W/m2 on the site. Go outside and aim the small solar cell at the sun. You must be outside, a window cuts down the numbers quite a bit. Now turn the volume control up or down until the meter reads 600 mV or 0.6 volts. Milivolts is easier to read though.

You can leave it like this or you can make it have a finer adjustment if you have a lower value potentiometer. You can carefully disconnect the potentiometer and measure the resistance across the two leads you were using. Let's say it is 100 ohms. Then use a resistor that is under that like a 47 ohm for instance. Then if you have a 100 ohm potentiometer it would be great. I happened to have a precision 100 ohm pot. It can be turned about 25 times around or so. Makes for a super fine adjustment. But I think just a regular pot is fine for most things.
This device is really great for estimating energy. Just remember you have to know your surface area and efficiency. For instance, if I read 500 w/m2 at a certain angle and I mount my solar panels at that angle and they are 2 meters square total, then that would be 1000 watts times my 15% efficiency, or 150 watts.

Or you could solve for efficiency in a real world example. You could also use it for solar hot air or water. You can see what difference glazing or double layer glazing makes...all before you build it.

Richard

Harness Hydro Power

Hi, everybody. Sorry that I havn't written for awhile. I started a new job and have been busy.

A friend showed me this article today and I thought I'd share with you.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Renewable-Energy/1977-07-01/Harness-Hydro-Power-with-a-Trompe.aspx

I was thinking this could be made on a small scale as well. Like using 2 pvc pipes (12 inches in diam and 18 feet long standing straight up or partially buried). This would give about 200 gallons of air columns. The pressure would depend on the head of the incoming water. The water would be a stream and piped just like you are running micro hydro. In fact, you could run micro hydro just before the inlet. It would go into an eductor that sucks in air as water flows through it and into the piping. The water outlet could be elevated with another pipe or a automatically throttling valve could be set on the output. You could then use the water for irrigation, drinking, or direct back to the stream.

A schedule 40 pipe 12 inches in diameter can handle 79 psi and a schedule 80 can handle 137 psi.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

Every 32 feet of water drop should give roughly 15 psi. So, typical property wouldn't see more than 30 to 45 psi. But if you bury the pipes you could add a little to that.