Saturday, November 7, 2009

Colloidal / Ionic Silver constant current - Part 2

Part 2

This is the AC version parts:


AC version soldered.

AC version put in a cottage cheese container. Notice that it puts out a max of about 39 volts with no load.

Here I started with a very clean jar and some 99.99% pure silver Canadian maple leaf coins.
Well, I did some experiments with just the AC constant current and decided I didn't like it. It didn't seem very efficient even after running all night. I decided to add a full wave bridge to the circuit to make it a DC output. At that point it was running at 0.5 mA.
This worked much better. It starts with a higher voltage and maintains a constant current. As the silver ions go into the distilled water, the resistance drops. This means the voltage has to drop just to maintain constant current. On one batch it started at about 9 volts and on a different brand of distilled water it started at 28 volts. That means the second batch's water was way more pure, even though they are both distilled.

Here is a pic showing the new DC version running for a bit.

This shows the oxide layer forming on the negative coin.

I had to take it out and wipe it off about once every hour or two. It seemed to take a little less than 1 hour for every ounce of distilled water. About 45 minutes per ounce. A small 4 ounce glass would take about 3 hours and a big 16 ounce mason jar takes about 12 hours. But, you will want to stir it every so often. I just stirred it when I cleaned the oxide off the coin.

I would "cook" it until the voltage output dropped to about 3 to 4 volts. The water would still be perfectly clear. But after a few days it would turn a amber color. I also would filter mine through a non-bleached coffee filter.

Here is a batch after sitting a few days. The jar was wrapped in aluminum foil to keep the light out. (Since this batch and switching to 45 minutes per ounce at 0.5mA, the water stays clear indefinitely. ) This picture shows what happens when cooking for 7 hours when it should have been about 3 or 4 hours. Although it did take a few days to turn amber.

That is a laser being shown though the liquid. This effect is the tyndall effect and it works even when the water is still clear. If you try it with just distilled water you will not see the laser path at all. So this is a good way to test as you are getting close to being done. And you can see something is happening because the voltage is steadily moving down.

Remember that the higher the voltage starts at, then the more pure the water. But if you take the same water and use different sized pieces of silver like silver wire instead of coins, then the voltage will change as well. So, if you are consistent, you can compare different water qualities.

I found that drinking it doesn't seem to help as much as gargling it and swishing it around in your mouth. Once it gets in your stomach, the ions interact with the stomach acid and form silver chlorides. The suspended colloids (about 15% of the solution) will go into your bloodstream. But gargling it gives you a much better absorption. You will need to gargle for 2 to 3 minutes and 3 times a day if you are sick.

Another great way is nasal spray. You can get a dark glass bottle and nasal spray top at most health food stores.

The other way, probably the best, is to use a nebulizer (ultrasonic). I haven't tried this though.
Let me know if you try this and what your experiences are.

thanks,
Richard


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4 comments:

  1. I make one quart batches of CS with a 30V AC adapter snatched from an old Hewlett Packard printer. I put a .3 mA voltage limiting diode (which i ordered from Mouser.com) on the positve lead before the silver electrode (which is .9999 12 gauge wire) Also have an aquarium bubbler tube inserted into the jar for constant stirring, this prevents a denser "current cloud" between the electrodes which increases particle size and creates sludge on the wires.
    Voltage starts at 30V, stabilizes at about 12V after 4-6 hours and then it's done. Product is gin clear, which means small particle size, and stays clear indefinitely. Silver content I estimate about 10-20 ppm.

    Looks like your current is still too high... amber color = large particle size.

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  2. I've read that you cannot judge the ppm only by the colour. Apparently the colour is a property of colloids in solution because they absorb violet light leaving only yellow. So, clear is probably not very strong.

    It's pretty tough to know "how long to cook". I built both a 27v DC and the 40V pulsed DC (AC rectified). I limited the current to 2.2 ma and 1.5 ma respectively, as measured after about 4.5 hours of "cooking". My 10oz batch came out light yellow in both cases, but I only stirred occasionally every 15-30 min. Constant stirring is a must I think after this experiment...I've read that a small toy motor can be most effective in this regard. That's my next step.
    It will be interesting to see if the dark oxide droppings/residues are reduced substantially.
    Pete Nov 18, 2009

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  3. Hi, Just wanted to say thanks you for the write up. its well done and very detailed.

    I was having a hard time finding detailed info like this, I didn't want to to risk taking in large particles of silver by making it wrong. I wish i found this page 2 days ago before i ordered one from a manufacturer.

    btw maybe if you know anything about the Sota silver pulsar. I payed a lot for it but i wont complain if it actually makes good quality, small particle colloidal silver. Is this product any good?

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  4. It was quite expensive at $230. but if the silver particle size ranges of 0.005 – 0.015 microns as they claim are true plus the pulser feature, hopefully it'll be worth the price..

    what do you think about the claim of particle size? exaggerated or no? they say they verified this by scanning electron microscope...

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